Make your dog a star!

Do you have any cute, funny or absolutely adorable pictures of your furry friend(s)? If so, you are invited to share them with the world on www.cutedoggypics.com. This is a new site that I am putting up, and will have an image gallery, forums for chatting about our companion dogs, and interesting information on dog health, training, and other matters important. I look forward to seeing you there.

In the next post, I am going to give some tips to take better pictures of your pets (and people too).

Till next time, Debbie

My Neighbor Couldn't Believe How Fast I Was Able To Get This Young Dog To Respond Reliably, Off-leash

Please keep the following a secret. Don't tell anyone. I don't want everyone "and their uncle" copying my dog training techniques/concepts and then claiming them as their own.

Anyway...

My neighbor couldn't believe it. I'd just brought this beautiful 9 month-old German Shepherd dog home, only two weeks ago, and already she was responding reliably to off-leash commands. (Or more specifically, coming immediately when I call and responding instantaneously to the word, "No!" from a distance...without yelling or screaming).

"How is it possible, Adam? We've had our dog for over three years, and he never listens to us! You've had your dog for less than two weeks and she's already responding to your commands, off-leash... and you only whisper your commands, once? I'm jealous."

"Look," I replied, "It's all in the book."

[To read more about this book I referred to, please see: http://www.dogproblems.com/newvideos.htm ]

"Okay, okay... I need to go back and read the book," he responded. "But at least give me a tip as to how you got such fast results with this dog?"

I replied, "Well, it's definitely easier if you know what you're doing, from Day 1. I never gave this dog an opportunity with me where she could learn that she can run away, or not respond to commands... without there being a negative association with disobedience. And that's the secret. Once you teach the dog to understand what commands mean, the next big step is to let the dog choose to do correct or incorrect behavior... BUT: Be sure that you're always in a position to reinforce the desired outcome."

"She learned quickly that it was okay if she wanted to try to run off, like she did with her previous owner, but if I called her then every time, she's going to have the opportunity to make a choice: Do it my way and get lots of love and praise. Or do it any other way and get a correction, and then the chance to make the choice again," I instructed.

"You need to let the dog know that every time she does a behavior, she's going to get the exact same outcome. And that 'outcome' is going to have a meaningful reaction, be it positive or negative," I explained. "Once you've done this, then the dog very quickly learns that it's best to respond to ALL COMMANDS quickly because she's going to avoid a negative association and obtain a positive association, that much quicker."

In this sense, dogs are a lot like humans: We go through life trying to minimize negative experiences and maximize positive experiences. If your dog understands how to do this... because you've used my "Three Keys To Behavior Modification" (also in the book, on page 21)... then you will be astounded as to how lightening fast you will achieve results with your dog.

That's all for now, folks!
Adam
Dogproblems.com

How to Teach YOur Dog to Eliminate on Command

Teaching your dog to defecate or urinate on command is actually hust a process of creating an association.

The command I use is, "Get Busy." But you can use any word or phrase that you please.

You're probably wondering why anyone would want to teach their dog an elimination command. And probably the best answer to this question is that it enables you to establish both a time and a place for your dog to eliminate.

For example, if you decide to go to bed early, and you don't want your dog to be uncomfortable for the next 7 or 8 hours, you can very easily take him outside and tell him to "do it now," because, "You won't have a chance to do it later since I'm going to bed."

Having an elimination command also allows you to tell your dog WHERE he should urinate or defecate. For example, if you're taking your pup for a stoll and he indicates that he needs to eliminate... you don't want him to merely stop and do his business in the middle of the sidewalk. What an elimination command allows you to do is to walk the dog over to some bushes, or behind a building and tell him, "Here! Here is where you can 'get busy.'"

How to teach the "Get Busy" command

Just like with any other command, your goal is to associate the phrase, "Get busy," with the action of either defecating or urinating.

Here's what you need to do in 5 easy steps:

1.) Take note of the usual times your dog needs to defecate or urinate.

2.) Take him to the usual spot where he likes to eliminate and walk him back and forth, repeating the phrase, "Get busy, get busy, get busy."

3.) When he begins to eliminate, continue saying, "Get busy." After five or six different occasions, your command will start to link with the behavior.

4.) A half second after he finishes, praise him.

5.) Repeat this process every time your dog needs to eliminate, and you'll soon find that he will begin to understand and at least make an attempt to evacuate the contents of his bladder on command.

That's all for now, folks!
Adam
Dogproblems.com

Canine Behavior Problem of Biting

The Canine Behavior Problem of Biting

According to the U.S. Disease Control Center in Atlanta, Georgia, about 1,000,000 people in the United States are bitten by dogs every year. The majority of victims are children between the ages of 5 and 8; in most cases, the biting dogs were house pets.

Dogs bite for a variety of reasons. Dogs may bite or display threatening behavior when they are angry, afraid, agitated, over-excited, or when challenged or seeking to protect.

The first thing to do when confronted with the problem is to discern "why" the dog behaved aggressively. If the dog was being teased or felt threatened, the problem may not be with the dog. Instead, fault may lie with whomever or whatever teased him or made him feel threatened.

Some dogs bite or snap at their caregiver's hands when the caregiver tries to take something away from them. According to Barbara Woodhouse, internationally known dog trainer, canine behavior expert, and author of Barbara Woodhouse's Encyclopedia of Dogs & Puppies, the best cure for such aggressive behavior is to "return violence with violence."

Effective Ways to Stop Dogs from Biting

When the dog attempts to bite, the caregiver should act swiftly by suspending the dog off his front legs by his choke chain; at the same time, scold in a violent tone of voice, "No bite!" The dog should be allowed back on his front legs only after he shows signs of discomfort (usually within 10 seconds). Once subdued; caress and praise him.

This process should be repeated every time the dog attempts to bite; he must be forced to respect your authority. While this type correction may sound cruel, it is not. Curing the dog of biting using this means is much kinder than having the dog sentenced to death in the gas chamber because of injuries inflicted on someone he bit.

Inexperienced caregivers may have a difficult time correcting their dog this way; if that is the case, the help of an expert dog trainer should be sought.


Preventing Aggressive Behavior that Leads to Biting

Some dogs are so naturally protective of their owner they attack anyone who approaches, without being given a command. This can be quite dangerous. Allowing a dog to lunge toward people could very well lead to other aggressive behaviors, such as biting.

One of the best methods to prevent this type aggression in dogs is to take the dog among crowds - muzzled if necessary. Get people to touch him (muzzled), and give him a sound scolding if he attempts to attack.

Another effective method is to get someone who trains dogs to snatch him from you and really shake him (by his choke chain) when he shows signs of vicious behavior. He must be defeated, and then praised for submitting.

What About Puppies?

Puppies are notorious for biting and nipping during play. One mistake people often make is to allow puppies get away with it. Caregivers often think such behavior is cute and believe the puppy will naturally grow out of it without intervention. The reality is that such "innocent" biting and nipping can become a learned bad habit, difficult to break once the puppy is older.

Caregivers should address nipping and biting early on, instead of waiting until the puppy has grown and the problem more difficult to correct. Puppies are not like children; they are growing dogs. And dogs need training and an understanding but firm, consistent hand to teach them what is acceptable and what is not. Correction methods for young puppies that bite are different than methods for grown dogs.

How to Handle Aggressive "Play" in Puppies

When a puppy bites hard enough to hurt he must be corrected firmly. Say "No bite!" in a firm tone. If that doesn't work, use what is called "the shakedown method," which resembles what the mother dog does to her pup to keep order in the litter. Shake the puppy by catching hold of the loose skin of its neck on both sides under the ears. Repeat "No bite!"

Puppies older than 12 weeks can be grabbed by the scruff of the neck with both hands, and lifted off their front feet, if necessary. Make the puppy look you straight in the face, and repeat "No bite!" If you sound angry enough, the puppy will understand.

This correction method must be consistent. If you permit him to bite one time, but get annoyed and correct him the next, the puppy will become confused and will not learn effectively.

Puppies are especially likely to bite or nip children who play with them either for too long a period, or are too rough with them. When a puppy shows signs of being tired of being "mauled" during play, it is time to let the puppy rest. Put the puppy away in his box or pen, and instruct others to leave him alone and let him rest.

Under no circumstances slap a puppy or dog's nose to discipline him; this is cruel, as well as ineffective. And always give plenty of love and praise for submissive behavior after correction has been administered.

At Savvy Dog Lover, we care about you and your pet. In part 3 of this 3-part instructional we discuss the problem of jumping. Read part 3, "How to Prevent Dogs and Puppies from Jumping up on People" at Savvy Dog Lover.

©2006 Lori S. Anton Savvy Dog Lover editor


About the Author
Lori S. Anton has been a published writer for 30 years, and is founder ofWriters Write Now.com. She is also editor for Savvy Dog Lover web site. Savvy Dog Lover offers valuable information on pet health, care, and training, as well as top pet care products. Visit Savvy Dog Lover - where the best bones are buried!

Five Mistakes New Puppy Owners Make

Five Mistakes New Puppy Owners Make by Katelyn Thomas


You've researched the different dog breeds to find the best one for you and your family, you've taken the time to find out whether the breeder you chose is ethical, and now you're finally bringing that precious new bundle of joy home. The hard part is over, right? Actually, there are several mistakes that many new puppy owners make that can really turn this joyful time into a frustrating and worrying experience. Avoid these new dog owner mistakes to be sure you and your puppy are off to a great start:

1. Potty training your puppy indoors and then expecting him to automatically go outdoors when he is older. Those nifty potty training pads look an awful lot like nice, plushy rugs to your puppy and he may opt to use your rugs as a toilet spot after you do away with the pads.

2. Giving in to his sad whimpers and tucking him in your bed for the first few nights and then expecting him to sleep on his own in a few days without crying. He'll just cry louder and longer once he knows what he is missing.

3. Letting your guilty feelings overwhelm you so that you don't crate train him. Crate training helps keep your puppy safe, since he can't get into dangerous things when you aren't watching him if he's crated. Also, he actually feels more secure when he is crated while no one else is home.

4. Taking your puppy with you when you go out, especially if you are going to a park or pet store. Puppies should be finished with immunizations before they go on outings. Their immune systems are often not fully developed when they are young and they are more susceptible to some of the deadliest dog diseases.

5. Letting your puppy do things that are cute in puppies and not at all cute in full size dogs, such as jumping up on guests. It is easier to curb these behaviors right away than it is to break your adult dog of bad habits.

To get your new puppy off to a good start, why not take the free ABC's of New Puppy Care mini course? To chat about your canine friend with other dog lovers, don't forget to visit the Free Dog Tips forum.


About the Author
To get your new puppy off to a good start, take the free ABC's of New Puppy Care mini course? To chat about your canine friend with other dog lovers, don't forget to visit the Free Dog Tips forum.

The Top 3 Canine Behavior Problems and How to Solve Them - Part 3
by Lori S. Anton

How to Handle Dogs that Jump up on People
In parts 1 and 2 of this 3-part series we discussed two canine behavior problems; biting and barking. In this 3rd and final article, we will discuss the problem of puppies and dogs that jump up on people.
Most puppies and many dogs have the habit of jumping up on people. This is actually their away of greeting people, and trying to reach the individual's face. For puppies, the facial area is the chief point of contact between them and other dogs or people.

Dogs that jump up on people are annoying; jumping up can also cause injury, especially when children are involved. Although you might not mind your dog jumping up on you in greeting, it would be unfair and confusing to allow your dog to jump up on you, but then punish him for jumping on others. Therefore, care givers should teach a dog not to jump.

To teach a dog not to jump, be firm and consistent, but show no anger. A raised knee when the dog jumps and a firm "No jump!", can be most effective in training a dog not to jump.

If this method fails to work, try holding the palm of your hand out so that when the dog jumps up he will bump his nose against it. At the same time command in a loud voice "Down!" Dogs have very sensitive noses and will not purposely risk many such bumps.

How to Train a Puppy Not to Jump up on People

The Monks of New Skete Monastery, Cambridge, New York, have been breeding, raising, and training dogs for more than thirty years. When it comes to ways to train a puppy not to jump up, they suggest kneeling and putting the palm of your hand flat out in front of the puppy's face when you sense he is about to jump. This effectively blocks the jump; it also disposes him to respond to a sit command.

To give your puppy an alternative to jumping up when greeting you, crouch down to his level when he runs to greet you; guide him into a sitting position. Pet him and talk to him in greeting, telling him "Good boy."

To train a puppy not to jump up when greeting guests, practice bring him up to people while on a leash. Lead him into a sit-stay several feet before reaching the person. Then have the individual approach. If the pup tries to jump toward the person, give the leash a quick jerk and order "No jump!"

Repeat the process until your puppy learns not to jump. Be firm but encouraging, and offer praise when he doesn't jump. Of course, this procedure is effective only if the puppy already knows the commands "Sit" and "Stay."

Training a dog not to bite, bark, or jump isn't all that difficult. It just takes a firm but understanding hand, and a commitment to consistency. Every dog and puppy should, and can, be a joy to be around.

At Savvy Dog Lover, we care about you and your pet. This concludes our 3-part series on dealing with top canine behavior problems. Again, parts 1 and 2 of this 3-part instructional dealt with excessive barking and biting; both can be found at www.savvy-dog-lovers.com.

©2006 Lori S. Anton, Savvy Dog Lover editor Writers Write Now

About the Author
Lori S. Anton has been a published writer for 30 years, and is founder ofWriters Write Now.com. She is also editor for Savvy Dog Lover web site. Savvy Dog Lover offers valuable information on pet health, care, and training, as well as top pet care products. Visit Savvy Dog Lover - where the best bones are buried!

Dear Adam:
First of all, let me just say how much I have enjoyed your book. I cannot believe the difference in the behavior of my two dogs since I started using the pinch collars and your techniques. I accomplished in about 15 minutes what two obedience classes could not - I got both of my dogs walking on loose leads. Amazing. Also, both will do a good down stay around most distractions - we're working on proofing now.
I have a 19 month old border collie cross and an 11 month old lab cross. Both are females and great dogs. My main problem at this point is having success with the recall command. I guess you could say that I feel I could use more detailed instruction here.
I've been working with a 20 foot line in a nearby park as outlined in your book. Things work fairly well when we're alone (i.e. minimal distractions) but this park is also a fairly popular off-leash area and when other dogs arrive I usually give up and take the line off - otherwise it just becomes a tangled mess. How can I introduce "controlled" distractions and how should I go about getting my dog's attention? I mean, at this point my dog becomes deaf when she comes across something on the ground that smells good, never mind another dog or person. I just want to be sure that I'm getting my timing right with the command and correction or praise. I'm hoping that you can help me with this - our Canadian exchange rate makes the cost of ordering your video rather prohibitive at this point! Just being honest.
One last thing - both dogs will walk on a loose leash when I walk them individually, but the younger one tends to want to walk ahead when I've got them out together. Is there a way to correct this, or do I need to walk them separately for a while longer? I guess that I've just asked a second question, so you can ignore this one if you want. I more concerned with the recall anyway.
Thanks so much. Your book has been so helpful and I've recommended it to several friends.
Shannon

Dear Shannon:
First, if you take the long line off the dog, then you're undoing everything you've just attempted to teach your dog. Now you have NO WAY of making the dog come back to you.
Remember... this isn't rocket science. Training your dog to come back to you reliable can be boiled down to one simple piece of advice: "MAKE the dog come back to you, every time you call him... until he becomes conditioned to do it on his own."
If you call the dog and cannot make him come... because he is not wearing the long line... THEN WHAT HAVE YOU JUST TAUGHT HIM??? You've taught him that he DOES NOT HAVE TO COME!
You are an excellent dog trainer. Whatever you end up teaching your dog (to come or not to come) ... YOU have done an excellent job of doing it.
Now... does it matter if there are other dogs in the park, and the line gets tangled? No. (True, it's a hassle... so you could use a 10' line instead of a 30 foot line) But none of this should interfere with your ability to MAKE YOUR DOG COME when you call him (UNTIL HE BECOMES CONDITIONED TO COME ON HIS OWN).
If he ignores you when you tug on your leash, then this tells me that you are not tugging firmly enough to get his attention. Make sure that you're getting slack in your line when you tug, and make sure that you've got the pinch collar fitted firmly enough.
As for walking two dogs at the same time... there are two things you can do:
1. Buy a coupler. This is a device that contains two 1 foot leashes that are attached together to your 6 foot leash. It kind of "Y"'s off at the end, so that you can reach down and correct one dog but not the other. Most pet stores carry these devices. (Each 1 foot leash has it's own harness snap.)
2. As the one dog begins to forge forward, give him the "Heel" command and give a sharp snap on the leash in a rearward direction. If the dog learns that every time he starts to forge ahead of the other dog that he will feel discomfort... quite simply... you'll notice him stop doing that behavior.
And remember... get outside and have fun with your dogs!!!
That's all for now, folks! Adam
About the Author
Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Being Your Dog's Boss is Crucial to Training
by Anthony Stai

Dogs, in their native state, are pack animals. We often think of them merely as independent pups and don't often mull over their unchallengeable core nature as pack animals, however. This failure to take into account the true personality of dogs can make training more complex. Similarly, understanding what it means to be a pack animal can unlock one of training's utmost secrets.

Dogs, in packs, have leaders. The leadership role in dog packs is one of immense authority. Other dogs in the pack of course subordinate themselves to leadership and will look to their leader for direction and instruction.

Of course, domesticated dogs don't travel in packs. In its place, they put together a pack based on individuals with whom they commonly interact. In essence, the owner and the owner's family members or close friends develop into the dog's pack.

This creates a superb opportunity for dog trainers. By casting yourself as the leader of your dog's pack, the dog will naturally be inclined to follow your direction, will naturally feel inclined to respect you and will show an natural need to learn from you. Since a dog's genuine social makeup will forever be seen through the natural canine point of view of packs and leaders, it simply makes sense for trainers to take advantage of this by assigning roles for both favorite and master that will make dog training principally effective.

There are a number of things a trainer can do to imitate being a pack leader. These techniques will permit your dog to discover what he will rightfully feel is his position in your family's social order and will make him substantially more amenable to your training. Some may say it is as trouble-free as 'making certain the dog knows who is the boss,' but that is an oversimplification.

Being domineering is not the same as being a leader. Simply trying to enforce your will on a dog does not necessarily communicate to him that you are truly the pack leader. The gifted trainer will understand this and will take precise measures to imitate a pack leader.
Some expert-recommended techniques include:

Consistency
Good leaders are reliable enforcers of regulations and rules. Leaders who also frequently 'look the other way' are not taken seriously. A dog will notice whether your rules and expectations are consistently maintained and may even test your mettle upon occasion, pushing the borders of established behavioral norms to determine who is actually in charge. By being a completely consistent leader, you are likely to establish yourself as being the head of your pack and your dog will then be a good deal more apt to follow your lead.

Respect
Leaders are appreciated not just as an arbitrary result of their assigned position but because of how they behave in that position. A firm, but fair leader is far more probable to be well-liked and followed. One must be firm with their dog when training, but cannot hold unreasonable expectations or implement their regulations with aggression or penalty. A good pack leader can still use the positive-reinforcement techniques that have been proven the heart of triumphant training. Being a respectful leader will make a respectful follower in your dog. Their obedience to you ought to be premised in respect and appreciation not in terror or humiliation.

Interaction
The successful pack leader will interrelate with his dog in conduct that strengthen the notion of the social ladder. Dogs, for example, look for cues from leadership in the eyes. By maintaining eye contact with your pet during training, he will better understand your position as leader. Likewise, it is desirable to occasionally demand your dog's concentration while walking, playing or during more intense training sessions. By commanding your dog to heel and to look at you, for example, you will further strengthen your position as pack leader.

Unlocking the influence of being a pack leader can make training much more successful. With roles obviously established, one can stay away from much of the struggle others may experience while training their pets. Additionally, by assigning yourself the function of pack leader you generate an environment in which your dog will naturally look to you for its leadership. Pack guidance is an necessary component to any fully optimized training program.

About the Author
Anthony Stai is a proud contributing author and writes articles on several pet related topics including dog training. You can see more of Anthony's articles on his Dog Training informational web site located at http://www.petinformation4you.com

4 Simple Steps to a Well Behaved Puppy
by Guy Ray

Puppy training is a lot like training your child. When dealing with behavior issues you should always be consistent. When you bring the puppy home decide on one person who will be training the dog. Try to always have that person training the dog, this creates less confusion. Dogs are pack animals and will try to assert there dominance but a few training tips can help him see someone else as the leader of the pack.
Puppies, like babies, teeth. Biting and chewing are caused by the puppy teething. It can also be caused by excess energy and stress. Puppies understand low guttural sounds and will react to them. If he begins to bite or chew on something inappropriate then say "no" in a low guttural voice. Then proceed to give him a safe chew toy that he can chew and bite. Giving them chew toys that resemble things he cannot chew or bite will only confuse him , so be careful of what chew toys he receives. Barking is another common and annoying puppy behavior.

Excessive barking can be fixed with a little puppy training. It is often caused by loneliness or boredom. If the cause is loneliness then spending a little more time with the dog may be the answer. If this puppy training doesn't work it may be that it has become a habit. Try filling an empty can with some pebbles, when the dog barks roll the can in his direction and use the low guttural voice to tell him "no". The can is not to hit dog , only to startle him and grab his attention.

Puppies also like to dig. Sometimes it is because of the breed. Some breeds are just known to be diggers. Unfortunately there is no definite puppy training to cure this one. Instead try to understand why they are digging and fix that problem. It may not cure the problem but it may help. If the dog is digging during the summer months to find a cooler spot, try providing a cooler spot for your dog to lay down.

A puppy that jumps on you might be cute but imagine him as an adult dog jumping on you. Part of puppy training is fixing the behavior problems before they become adult dogs. There is a way to discourage the puppies jumping. Avoid petting your puppy when he jumps, it will only encourage him. When your puppy jumps lean towards him and say in a low guttural voice "off". When he backs away tell him to sit and then praise him. This shows him that he will only get what he wants by doing the desired behavior.

Puppy training takes patience and consistency. However puppy training is a lot easier than training an adult dog. Taking care of the problems while he is still a puppy will save you a lot of frustration in the end.

About the Author
Guy Ray is a published web author on various subjects as well as a certified copywriter and webmaster. To learn more about how to properly train your puppy visit his site atmy trained puppy